July 29, 2001:
Hi Mom, I'm glad you got some time off for July 4. I really miss having two day weekends -- we are in class 1/2 of Saturday. I will look forward to being in charge of my own schedule after training.
You asked about the Appia's house (where I'm living while in training). The TV doesn't have any cable channels at all, and nothing in English. There are lots of old US, Brazilian, and French soap operas, all dubbed in French. It's so annoying to have their lips not moving together with the words! As best I can tell, the US soaps are at least 10 years old. Our guess is that the Ivorian TV stations look for cheap programming, no matter how old. Also, I catch glimpses of very old movies, but nothing I've recognized so far. In the evening (8 p.m.) there's news and weather. Most of it is national, with some international. Commercials don't play during the show--they get held until the end and then all played together, also mixed with public info notices. Yann also watches (religiously) Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. I have seen other cartoons but nothing I recognize. No Sesame Street, no CNN, and none of my favorite sit-coms.
You also asked if I can explain why there is no running water in the house. Well, I can try...probably 2 main reasons. 1--the pipes are expensive and 2--they don't think it's a big deal. First the expense. From what I understand, the water company will run a pipe to your house & install one outside faucet for free. But any pipes & faucets you want inside are your own expense. And, if they leak & run up your water bill, or need repair, again--all your expense.
Second, the lifestyle. Keep in mind that all the adults in my household--Mama, Papa, the niece (21 yrs) & the servant/housekeeper (20 years) all grew up in villages, not cities. The villages don't have running water at all. You either go to a community well or a river to get water by the bucketful & bring it home. (Of course, you carry it on your head!) The villages likely don't have electricity either, but that's another story. So, if you're used to walking a mile each way for water, and now you have a tap on the side of the garage, life seems pretty grand--you know?
It does make you thankful for water & for plumbing. Today I have used maybe 8 to 10 buckets of water...two for my "shower" and the rest for laundry. I did 20 items, mostly washcloths and underwear, but the water gets dirty really fast because there's bleach in the detergent. Oh, and to conserve water & save myself another trip out to the faucet, I flushed the toilet with one bucket of rinse water from my laundry. My sister, the niece, can do a lot more laundry with a lot less water. Then again, I don't think their clean clothes smell all that clean.
I told you I'm taking most of my laundry out, right? It's just much easier, and it also provides a little income for the laundry guy. He, too, washes it by hand in plastic tubs and hangs it out to dry. All for 7 cents per article. Wow.
I thought the article Carolyn sent was so interesting. (About the children being enticed to the chocolate fields where they end up being captive workers.) We all passed it around and read it. There is one thing I have to clear up though. Keep in mind how much cheaper necessities are here. Food especially is cheap. I made French toast the other day for 50 cents--that was a loaf of French bread, 2 eggs, a cup of milk and some sugar. You can easily eat here for $1.00 per day. Thus, when you read about how little those slaves are paid, it said $150/year, keep in mind it's not quite as bad as it sounds.
I'll be receiving $200/month or so, and I'm truly rich. My rent is picked up by the city of Taabo, so add another $50 or so for housing. Other volunteers have said water costs about $5 per month and electricity about $10 per month. Less if you don't have a refrigerator.
We don't get any U.S. news here, so I'm always interested in the news you include. I might have to start requesting a Newsweek every so often so I can keep up.
I've started walking/jogging three days a week with two friends. We go at 6 a.m. when it's cooler. It's nice to get out & move a bit, and it's not really safe to do alone. Not that the people would attack me, just that we're strangers & we can't read situations very well. Marrying a "rich" white woman is definitely seen as a way to a better life. I get hit on a lot by men of all ages. It's annoying. To be out walking alone would only encourage would-be suitors. During the day I feel perfectly safe...but I do get stopped a lot to find out if I'm available for marriage. Also, kids still run up to touch us or talk to us with our funny French. That cracks me up. Yesterday a little girl was totally fascinated with my fingernails.
Back to the marriage proposals--we've gotten lots of different advice for sending away suitors. Sometimes I tell them I already have three husbands at home and that's all I can afford. Sometimes I ask them "why me?" until they admit they don't know me--just that I'm American and that must be good. Sometimes I try to explain that an American wife wouldn't be a second class citizen like an Ivorian wife is--she wouldn't work her fingers to the bone and accept infidelity or polygamy. Often though, I just tell them I can't understand their French, apologize, and move one. Maybe the next white woman they ask will be nicer. :)
It's downright cold here today. It has to be below 70 degrees. My family is wearing long pants & coats, if you can believe it. I'm just happy to not be sweating, here in a tank top & shorts. Ah--winter in Cote d'Ivoire!